Jiufen Taipei

One of my favorite day trips from Taipei, but can be full of insane tourist groups. It’s said that this is where Director Miyazaki got his idea for the Ghibli Studio film, Spirited Away! After walking around (ignoring the crowds), I could see it really well.

Jiufen side street. It was a cloudy day but still nice in the area.

When to go…
Taiwan tends to open later. As in most shops and resaturants wont open until 11am or noon at earliest. I reccommend leaving Taipei city around 9 or 10am if you can. This will help to avoid the bus load of tourists. Food will be fresh and it will be easier to walk leisurely down the narrow passages.

How to get to Jiufen
There are two options, bus or taxi/private taxi that try to nab you at the bus stop.

The bus is 100NT one way, takes a little over an hour and barely makes stops.

The private taxi will charge 200NT to start, and will sell it at a 45 minute ride. Don’t let them fool you saying that the bus will take 2hrs. The bus really isn’t baf if you have time to kill to take the scenic route. If you’re pressed for time then consider the taxi. But know that sometimes those taxi buses will loop back around if they can pick up more people.

What to do in Jiufen
They have a few temples around, with amazing colors! Even on a cloudy day we could see them.

But Jiufen is really known for its tea. Find a nice tea house if you have time to relax. It can be a really nice hideaway from the crowds or escape from the weather.

How to Asian Tea Time
The way of tea between Taiwanese and Chinese culture are almost similar.  You pay by the choice and type of tea. The tea house will then prepare a container of tea leaves for the customers, usually accompanied with a small cookie snack.

They will do the first pour to show you how to properly make the tea.
From the pot you can reuse the first scoop several times before the leaves are finished.

If you don’t finish all the leaves, which you probably won’t…they’ll doggie-bag the rest of the leftovers.

There’s no time limit, as tea time is a traditional practice for relaxation and leisurely conversation. You could easily spend hours in there.

Relieve Mosquito Bites

While it can be hot in South East Asia, the evenings can be comfortable and enjoyable. The comfortable temperature is also the time when bugs come out, especially mosquitoes.

Mosquitoes love me, no matter how hard I try I can never protect myself enough. While making my way around Thailand I learned how to fight off the bug itch and it made my trip a lot more enjoyable.

Relieve Mosquito Bites, Thailand

I was tipped off by a friend I made during my time in Thailand. When he saw my legs covered in bites he recommended me this ointment: (See picture below…)

Mosquito Bite ointment found in any drug or convenience store.

It’s great to combat and soothe any itching bug bites, especially for mosquito bites. This small disk is a cooling cream is cheap and can be found in any drug store or convenience store.  I forgot how much I paid, but for Thai Baht it’s pretty much pennies compared to the Western dollar.

Inside the creme looks green, but applies clear on the skin. There is a bit of a herbal, menthol smell, but it’s hardly noticeable unless I stick my nose really close to container.

Apply generously to the bites and surrounding area. This small container can last a long time!

Mosquito Bite ointment to relieve itch.

Easy Itch Relief for Travellers

Saliva ~ Using the body’s own saliva is one of the common and natural ways to self-heal any itches.

Toothpaste ~ one of the best home remedies. Peppermint is said to be the best.

Deodorant ~ I’ve heard of people using their deodorant to sooth bites almost instantly. However, if the deodorant has a sweet or floral scent it just might attract more insects instead.

Coconut Oil ~ So useful in so many ways. Great for injuries (like cuts) and bites. It’s anti-microbial, meaning it kills harmful bacteria and heals bites. Coconut oil is abundant in Thailand, it’s a good option when there’s nothing else around.

Warning: Do not use Tiger Balm!

While some people may suggest to use Tiger Balm (or something similar to), I would recommend against it. I actually made that mistake. Tiger Balm is great for muscle relaxant and stress relief because heating agent in the mixture, but not for solving bug bites and itches.

While the heating effect might seem to temporarily relieve the itch, it’s actually inflaming the bite. The more applied, the more inflamed and itchier as the body attempt to get rid of it.

China High Speed Train Review

This year for Golden Week I decided to make my way to China. I did a round trip from Beijing to Shanghai, because after living in Japan and having fun on the overnight train in Thailand I’ve actually come to enjoy trains. In China, I decided to try out the new High Speed Train.

Shanghai’s railway station. Luckily, it seems that all the train stations have the same layout so it’s easy to get around.

 

Train from Beijing to Shanghai

The ride between Beijing and Shanghai varies between 4-5 hours, and taking the HS Train was nice and smooth. At first I wanted to try the business class (one-way), just because the chairs looked cool but they were all booked up. So I opted to go first class just to treat myself, but sadly it seemed like there’s probably no real difference in comparison to riding second class except in terms of pricing.

Seats of first class. But honestly, it looked no different than 2nd class.

There was a lot of leg room but services provided were very minimal from what I thought (and read) that would be offered in “first class”. That being said, I wonder what business class REALLY had to offer. So, if you’re thinking about buying a ticket here are a few marketing corrections that need to be addressed (and or updated) on the website:

1. Snacks & Drinks: When first arriving on the train a stewardess will come by, and you are given: a drink (orange juice or water); and a small airplane-like mix snack bag. And that is it, whereas the website states unlimited drinks. There is a tap for hot water, so I assume their idea of limited drinks would be unlimited hot water for BYOT (bring-your-own-tea).

*Note: Coffee is available @15RMB

2. No meals: On the website it says that a free meal is provided for VIP* (which includes both business & first class riders), but there is none. I was shown a menu, and if you want a meal it’s around 50RMB. Feel free to bring your own food and snacks, unless you want to check out the restaurant on board the train.

3. No WIFI: I’m not sure about business class, but there was not even a secure signal to be found in the first class cabin. Not sure of the business class cart.

Boarding platform

Recommendation?

When taking China’s High Speed Train during the day (not the evening cart…I haven’t really experienced it), there doesn’t seem to be much difference in terms of what you get from first and second class.

Aside from price, the only few noticeable differences were:

1) A designated VIP ticket gate (for business & first class), so you can bypass the long lines of nudging of other passengers.

2) Second class may have more passengers depending on what part of the year you’re traveling.

3) 1 free snack pack & drink per route.

Thailand Trains

Traveling between Bangkok and Thailand I decided to try taking the overnight train. It was my first time taking the train, and I really enjoyed it. I didn’t book a ticket in advance, but instead I just bought it when I arrived ~ and this was also considered during the high season in Thailand.

The fare is pretty cheap compared to an airplane ticket, and taking the overnight train definitely helps a traveler save on accommodation. Not only that, I’ve come to learn to enjoy transiting by train. It’s a nice scenic route.  Most of my information came from Seat 61, which I found pretty helpful: http://www.seat61.com/Thailand.htm

Bangkok Train Station. Taking the evening train.

Riding Thailand’s Train

Timing: Might not be the best for travelers on a strict schedule. Anticipate that the train will be at least 2-3 hours later than the arrival time. While I would take the early evening train, scheduled to arrive in the wee-early morning hours, I would arrive around noon-ish or so. That being said, my trip was pretty relaxed so I didn’t mind the time of day.

Seating in first class. These seats turn into the lower berth bed.

Restaurant: When you board the train, take note as to where the Restaurant cart is. There aren’t many tables, but it’s a good way to meet people because everyone is friendly. Majority of the seats needed repairs, but I assume it was because much of the damage was caused by travelers who stand on them trying to stick their bare butts out the window. No joke, this will probably happen sometime during the night…. Ooo dinner and a show!

Thailand train restaurant

Around 8 or 9pm the lights go out and the place becomes a fun disco/lounge atmosphere, but it will shut down around 10 or 11pm. In the morning it’s nice and quiet. The morning scenic view is quite nice when having breakfast or morning coffee.

A little hard to see…but this is when the restaurant turns into a “lounge”

 Staff: All the staff on my train was super friendly and nice! Never be afraid to ask for help. My carriage attendant was so nice that he lent me his cellphone (without me asking, I was looking for a land-line before departure) to make a call to cancel a tour that I would not be able to make.

* Thailand travel tip: Bring an unlocked phone & buy a sim card at the airport. So cheap, even if you get a bundle package for calls &3G! I kicked myself for not having my phone unlocked ><…

Dinner on the train. I enjoyed it, and it was fairly cheap.

Bedding: If you’re traveling first class I would always recommend the lower berth (especially if you’re tall!). The upper berth is okay, but with the lower berth you get the window and an awesome view in the morning. It’s nicer and less cramped.

Lower berth bed. Not the best picture, but it’s better than the view from the upper berth.

Toilets: Yes, the toilets are all steel squatty toilets ~ even in first class. There’s not much of a flush system, it looks like everything just gets dumped along the tracks. Toilet paper is available but have wet-wipes or your own roll on hand just in case.

…ya…no pictures are really needed here…

Bugs: Sometimes bugs (i.e. cockroaches) can be spotted running around, so keep your clothes (or any loose items) off the floor, or packed in enclosed bags or suitcases. They especially like to come out at night…no joke.

Morning view of Thailand.

Thai Massage: Women Correctional Center

**Highly recommended for anyone going to Chaing Mai, and in need of a Thai massage! It’s cheap! Great food! And you can help out a good cause**

In Chaing Mai, there is a Thai Massage program going on at the Women Correctional Center (WCC). This program is to help inmates learn and practice skills that they can take away upon leaving prison. Inmates can choose to either learn the art of massage, or working in food & beverage. This also includes being taught English to help them communicate with foreign guests.

Women Correctional Center

The women then work at the WCC for the 6-months prior to being released from prison. All the money that is collected is put into a fund, so upon release the women have some money to start with. This is actually a really nice program to help reintegrate them back into society, and giving them more focus and an alternative lifestyle…Canada, maybe should take note of this…

The Women Correctional Center, from the outside.

Outside the WCC, ordering lunch ^^

Women Correctional Center, Chaing Mai

This place is really nice and cozy, located around the North-West side of the old city. I definitely recommend saving your appetite for this place! There is often an hour wait for a massage, and in that time guests can relax on the grounds. There’s both indoor and outdoor seating, and the food is great ~ not to mention cheap!

Lunch at the Women Correctional Center. Noodles in an egg basket with a Coconut shake ^^!!!

I ordered so may coconut-shakes here…Though it was a bit far from my hostel, I made sure to trek my way here. If I didn’t have time for a massage, I did it for the food 🙂 I really pigged out. I highly recommend trying the food, especially the dessert!

Banana fritters…and another Coconut shake ~ because I’m on vacation and I can! 😀

I found this place out through from friends I met on this trip. This place is also mentioned in Lonely Plant:

1 hour foot massage 160TBD
1 hour full body massage 180TBD

Women Correctional Center

Thailand Cooking Lessons: Baan Thai Cookery

All around Thailand there’s a lot of tours and activities to do around the country, and what better way to learn about culture, than through the stomach (^_^). There are tons of cooking classes around the country. In Chaing Mai I happened to come across Baan Thai Cookery, which later I found out was also recommended in Lonely Planet.

Our instructor, Eet
@ Baan Thai Cooking Class

Baan Thai Cookery

I took an awesome Thai cooking day course led by Eet. We learned how to create a 5-course Thai meal from scratch! There’s a selection to choose from from each category: Stir-Fry, Appetizer, Soup, Curry & Dessert. You will be well fed after taking one of these classes, I promise you.

Checking out the spices in the market.

Eet picked us all up from our accommodation areas to his kitchen. After we settled and introductions were made we all headed down to the market for some shopping! Here, Eet introduced the commonly used Thai ingredients for cooking, and as a group we gathered fresh ingredients for the day.

**If there are any allergies, or food items that you don’t eat (i.e. fish), please let Et know in advance ~ it will also save a lot of time in class.

TL: Fried Cashew Chicken
LL: Panaeng Currey
TR: Fish Cake
LR: Hot & Sour Prawn Soup

Back at the kitchen, we all suited up in our aprons, enjoyed some complimentary snacks and started cooking. Surprisingly, all the dishes that at first seemed complicated and time consuming was actually really quick!

Preparation time seemed no longer than 10 minutes ~ except for the curry paste, that we made from scratch! That was the first time I chopped a pepper into paste! 😀 And cooking time in general took no more than around 5 minutes…oh ya, travelers, don’t worry about eating breakfast if you plan to have a cooking day.

Cooking away! Making curry paste from scratch!

Baan Thai Cookery School Website (here)

**This was one of the first activities that I did when I arrived in Thailand, and I highly recommend it as a good trip starter. Suggested by a friend, doing this at the beginning of trip because not only is a nice and relaxing activity if you’re a bit fatigued from traveling; but also, you may bond well and hang out with your fellow chefs after class :)**

Mango with sticky rice

Thai Massage Class

In Chaing Mai, I took a Thai massage class at “Art of Massage”. I signed up for the Practical Course 1, and for four-hours I learned how to massage the upper back, neck and shoulders. My instructor was Ms. Wana, not only is she a sweetheart of a conversationalist, but she’s without a doubt the coolest instructor I’ve ever had. I was her only student that morning so she met me at Tha Pae Gate on her motor bike! and together we rode off into the horizon to her studio… what makes it more awesome? I did the common S.E. Asia thing and rode without a helmet ~ like the “Western daredevil” that I am 😛 (crossed that off my bucket list!)

Art of Massage

Art of Thai Massage

This class is very hands on, and practical. To learn massage, practice time is essential to exercise and enforce the newly learned knowledge… especially for something as fast as one-day.

Ms. Wana’s place was nice and cozy. She offered me comfortable pants to change into before starting. I was then given a book with lots of space that allowed me to make my own notes. At first, Ms. Wana would demonstrate on me for a few portions, and then we would switch roles so that I could practice on her.

This was really helpful, as she could correct me me on what I needed to improve…I must admit, it was pretty difficult to stay awake when she was trying to teach me. That was my relaxing massage day **\(^0^)/**

My instructor Ms. Wana

Website: http://artofmassage.webs.com/courses.htm

Elephant Nature Park, Thailand

One of the main reasons why I chose Chaing Mai over the beaches of Phuket, was because a friend recommended volunteering at an elephant sanctuary. About an hour outside of Chaing Mai is the Elephant Nature Park (ENP), an organization started by Lek to help rehabilitate elephants back into nature. I have never been so inspired, and this was with out a doubt the most memorable moment of my trip. Big recommendation!

With Lek, the Elephant Whisperer and the pioneer of Elephant Nature Park!

**Did you know…an elephant constantly swaying, rocking back and forth, or shaking its head is a common sign of stress.

Elephant Abuse

Elephants seen around town, or advertised to tourists often went through a severe and abusing training session. These sessions are used to breakdown the spirit of the elephant, so they will obey the chosen master or village.

These conditioning methods are quite abusive to training the elephant, such as caging up the elephant with no space of movement. Starving the animal for days, using abusive tactics to enforce commands ~ such as probing the elephant with long sticks with nails tied at the end, or hitting the top of the elephant’s head with a sharp bull hook that sometimes gets caught in the elephants skull.

An example of common elephant training can be seen here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YcvGGe-zpIA

Female elephants are usually caged for 3 days, while males are caged longer as they usually give more resistance. Once trained, these elephants are used as building labor, beggers, circus performers and the common tourist rides.

There are changes being made, slowly but surely ~ such as schools that teach Mahouts (elephant riders) how to bond and control their elephant through civilized and positive humane means. Unfortunately, many villages and Mahouts are not there yet and most of them still take to the old school conditioning tactics.

Feeding an elephant whose blind in both eyes. She was hit in the eyes with a sling shot when she wouldn’t obey.

Elephant Nature Park (ENP)

Elephants have always been a big part of Thai culture. Elephants are treasured, and are said to have helped build the country, many of which worked in the logging industry. In 1989 logging was banned after the country experienced its worst flood in history, and many elephants were abandoned.

Lek, a.k.a. the “Elephant Whisperer”, decided to create a sanctuary for elephants. Educating tourists and volunteers on the abuse of elephants. This nature park is a gorgeous and spacious area! Most of the elephants were purchased by the nature park from their working owners or villages, and very few were given. Some of the elephants were blind from abuse if they disobeyed, while others had deformities (blown up feet because of land mines, or broken limbs from improper breeding tactics).

**Traffic and noise can be stressful and dangerous to the elephants found in the city. Bangkok is still the last city in Thailand that allows “elephant begging”. Owners take the elephant around and beg tourists to buy fruits to feed the elephant… but in reality, the total amount of food is not nearly enough to sustain the animal’s nutrition.

Aside from the massive property size, this nature park has gown in many ways since Lek started this. What started off as an elephant sanctuary, has also received and taken in stray buffalos, and dogs…almost 400 stray dogs! Everything is run off of donations, and volunteers are more than welcome to come and stay for as long as they’d like to help.

Buddhism still has deep roots in Thai culture, and it has been exercised to the benefit of this park. To ensure and secure that no one comes to illegally log the land, Lek went to a Buddhist temple to get a bundle of orange cloth blessed by the monks. With the help of the monks, these orange cloths were tied around trees symbolizing their sacredness. Anyone who chooses to harm the trees will do so at their own spiritual (and religious) risk.

Elephant Nature Park. 100% dedicated elephant sanctuary. Helping to rehabilitate elephants back into nature.

Visiting the Elephant Nature Park

There is no trekking involved. Instead, visitors (and volunteers) are educated about elephant treatment and abusive conditioning to train elephants into the circus performers and tourist rides we see today.

Arriving on site we were briefed about the organization, and then went onto snack time where we fed them baskets full of fruits. We went out and toured the grounds a bit and got up close and personal with the elephants.

There were a few elephants that were housed and caged off as this was the nursery for expecting mothers, and for those who already gave birth.

**Did you know…elephants with pink skin are considered the “white elephants”. Some elephants may have bits of pink on their bodies, but those that are full on pink (or white) must be handed over to the King. It is illegal for anyone to be in custody of a white elephant.

We were fed lunch, and then we all headed down to the river to help bath the elephants. Once bath was over we watched the elephants migrate over to the other side so they could coat themselves with their natural sun block, dirt.

There are tons of tour options to choose from, be sure to book in advance because there’s only a limited number of visitors allowed on the grounds at one time. Sadly, I was only able to do a one day trip but every little bit helps. Next time I’m in Thailand, I’m definitely coming back here again!!

Elephants playing in the river for their midday bath.

There are many other options to helping out the park as well: purchasing supplies, buying souvenirs or even sponsoring an elephant! For more info, please check out: http://www.elephantnaturepark.org/

Weekend Getaway to Seoul

On a whim of wanting to do something different, and having finished a stress run at school I decided to treat myself to a last minute weekend getaway to Korea. Never been, always wanted to go and I heard the food and shopping were amazing. Yes to both ^^. Sadly, I wish I could have stayed longer

Weekend Getaway to Seoul

Usually I try to plan everything in advance, with back up plans for precautions…this is probably the first time I didn’t prep anything except my suitcase. I was quite glad to have my friend there with me, as she planned our day and translated everything for me – personal tour guide, o ya! Without her, I know I would have gotten lost many times.

Weekend Getaway to Seoul

Seoul Tower & Love Locks

First stop, Seoul Tower . Along the base of the tower was a look out dock with walls covered and decorated with love locks. These love locks had messages written on them, then lovers would lock them together and toss the key as a symbol to never break up.

Love Locks

However, there are signs asking people not to toss their keys into the forest below. As for couples who have broken up…looking over the railing we could spot many locks that were chucked overboard and landed on the roof tops of these large metal storage compartments.

Sigh…where’s mine, again?

 

Daegong Palace

I love history, especially castles and traditional architecture. Due to weather conditions our plans to move about outdoors were limited. We managed to visit Deoksugung, a palace that belonged to the Prince in the 1400’s.

Deoksugung Gate Entrance.

It was really nice, we walked around a bit and then sat on one of the stone steps in front of a corridor. We spent about almost half an hour chit-chatting and listening to the sound of raindrops run off the roof. This was probably the first time I’ve been genuinely relaxed on a trip. Usually I’m more time-based, always hurrying to visit the next place due to the limit of my stay, unsure of when I’ll be back again. But I will be back again, considering that Korea is so close.

Around Deoksugung Palace

Outside the Deoksugung Palace walls is a lovely brick walk way. This is also where City Hall is located. During the evening this is said to be very romantic for couples as the brick wall and street is lit by ground lighting.

Bricked walkway outside Deoksugung palace.

Food in Seoul

I wish the weather was a little better. Before leaving the forecast was sun with slight cloud, then the day I left and arrived my friend told me that it would be raining all weekend. And man did it rain! Darn. Saving my plans for outdoor markets and stall foods for a day I’m not grasping tightly to the umbrella to become the next Mary Poppins. But at least there’s still a lot of good food to be found!

Bulgogi Beef – Popular Korean dish. This one was heated like hot pot, and the broth was really flavorful. Never tasted it in this style before ^^. Wrap it up in gim (seaweed) with rice and kimchi… ^^.

Bulgogi Beef set.

Cold Noodle Soup – A popular seasonal dish for summer. Sadly the weather this weekend was rainy, but it was still refreshing. The cooled broth is from beef bones. Add in the sauces, mix it, then eat it in combination with the Bulgogi beef. It’s so flavorful! And don’t be shy about drinking the noodle broth – yum! Yum!

Korean Cold Noodle Soup.

Misutgaru Latte – grain latte, recommended by a friend to try. The texture is similar to a matcha latte, just a touch more grainy depending on how many different grains is included. I found a “12 Grain Latte”. Taste is light, with a hint of a sweet corn flavor. It’s really good, and feels healthy.

Sweet Potato Latte – Like Taro bubble tea :). It’s much sweeter than Misutgaru, only slightly not as grainy in texture.

Sweet Potato Latte.

Shopping In Seoul

I’m horrible at bargaining. I always feel bad like I’m cheating someone, but in reality they’re really cheating me. In the end, sellers will take care of themselves as they’ll make sure they’ll always come out on top…but I still feel bad. This was probably one of the funniest moments of my trip, and what’s a trip without memories:

Walking down an aisle I came across this nice green bag. Had it been real there’s no doubt it would have been expensive, but Korea has top-notch “Super AAA” knockoffs – other countries can’t compare with their “Grade C & D” replications. Anyway, the seller saw me and told me to try the bag on in front of the mirror.

“I’ll offer it to you for ($80)” he said. It was cute, but I didn’t really need it, nor was I looking for a bag. My main priority was clothes.
“Oh, no thank you”, as I quickly handed it back to him.
“EH!” his expression was priceless. While I was trying to say I don’t want/need it, he took it as: it’s too expensive, so no!

“Okay, how about ($75)?” he offered.
“…No…”
“What? Okay, how about ($70)?”
“…No, thanks…”
“What? You know this bag is usually worth over ($128)…if you go around here and find the same bag, no one can give you a better price than me.”
“…No…”
“Okay, okay you drive a hard bargain Miss…name your price. How much do you want to pay?”

Hmm…now I wonder how low could have I really gone?…